The short answer
Chenille is a soft, fuzzy yarn with a raised pile. The word is French for “caterpillar”, which is what the yarn looks like. On a letterman (varsity) jacket, “chenille” means the big textured letters, numbers and patches: chenille yarn stitched in tight loops onto a felt base, then cut out with a felt border around the edge.
In US high schools and colleges, a student traditionally earns the chenille letter (the school’s initial) for making a varsity team or for achievement in music, academics or other activities. The jacket then collects class years, names and activity patches over the years.
How chenille letters are made
- Artwork and digitizing. The letter, mascot or logo is turned into a stitch file, with the chenille area, any fine embroidered detail and the felt borders mapped out.
- Felt base. The chenille is stitched onto a felt layer in the background color. A second felt layer in another color gives the classic two-border look.
- Chenille stitching. Chenille machines work in two stitches: a looped “moss” stitch that builds the fluffy surface, and a flat chain stitch for outlines, script and fine detail.
- Cutting. The felt is cut around the design to leave an even border.
- Backing. The patch is left plain for sewing, or given an iron-on heat-seal, adhesive or hook-and-loop backing.
Because chenille is thick and fuzzy, it works best for bold shapes: block letters, numbers, mascots and simple logos. Very small text and thin lines are better embroidered.
Chenille vs embroidery vs patches
| Method | Look and feel | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Chenille | Raised, soft, towel-like texture that stands out from a distance | Chest letters, class years, big numbers, mascots |
| Chain-stitch embroidery | Looped, slightly vintage stitched line | Script names, outlines, retro lettering |
| Flat embroidery | Tight, flat, detailed stitching | Crests, small logos, fine text |
| Woven or PVC patches | Flat with very fine detail (woven) or rubbery and 3D (PVC) | Sponsor logos, club badges, small detailed artwork |
Most letterman jackets combine two or three of these. See all eight options on our decoration methods page.
What goes where on a letterman jacket
Every school and team has its own traditions, so check yours before you order. These are the usual placements:
- Left chest: the varsity letter, the school’s initial in chenille.
- Right chest: the student’s first name or nickname, often in chenille or chain-stitch script.
- Sleeves: the class (graduation) year in chenille numbers, plus sport, activity or achievement patches.
- Back: the school name in arched lettering, often with the mascot or team name.
- Around the letter: pins, bars or small icons for each season or award.
The jacket itself
A classic letterman jacket has a wool-blend melton body, sleeves in leather, faux leather or contrast wool, striped rib knit at the collar, cuffs and hem, and snap buttons down the front, with a quilted or satin lining. Brands also make hooded, zip-front and cropped versions for streetwear. Read more about the options on our custom varsity jackets page.
Care: wool-blend jackets with leather or faux-leather sleeves are usually spot-cleaned or professionally cleaned rather than machine-washed. Follow the care label sewn into your jacket.
How to order letters and jackets
Whether you need loose chenille patches or finished jackets, a quote needs:
- Your artwork, or the letter style and font you want
- School or brand colors, ideally as Pantone references, for the chenille, felt borders, jacket body, sleeves and rib
- The size of each letter or patch, in inches or centimeters
- Sew-on or iron-on backing for loose patches
- For class or team orders, a spreadsheet of names, numbers, class years and sizes
- Your delivery address and the date you need them
We make a sample so materials, colors and lettering are approved before bulk, then decorate and pack each jacket per person if you need. US schools, teams and brands can read how we work with US customers on our manufacturing for US brands page.
Frequently asked questions
Why is it called chenille?
Chenille is the French word for caterpillar. The yarn has a soft, fuzzy pile that looks like one.
What does the letter on a letterman jacket mean?
Traditionally, it shows that the student earned a place on a school varsity team or a similar achievement in music, academics or other activities. The letter is usually the school’s initial.
What is the difference between chenille and embroidery?
Chenille is raised, fuzzy and soft, and suits big letters, numbers and simple shapes. Embroidery is flat and tight, and holds fine detail and small text better. Many jackets use both.
Can chenille patches be ironed on?
Yes, with an iron-on heat-seal backing. For jackets that will be worn for years, sewing the patch on is still the most secure.
Can you make letterman jackets with chenille letters already sewn on?
Yes. We make the jackets, letters and patches together and sew them in place, then pack each jacket per person if you send a list of names and sizes. See varsity jackets.
More guides
- DTF vs screen printing vs embroidery
- US clothing label requirements
- Importing clothing from Pakistan to the USA
Planning varsity jackets for a class, team or brand? See custom varsity jackets or request a quote with your design and list of names.