Fabric weight is one of the first decisions when you specify a hoodie. It changes how the garment feels, how it hangs, how warm it is, what it costs and what it weighs in a shipping carton. This guide explains what GSM means, gives you a hoodie GSM chart, and shows how to choose the right weight for your customer.
What does GSM mean?
GSM stands for grams per square metre. It is the weight of one square metre of fabric, so a 400 GSM fleece weighs 400 grams per square metre. Factories usually check it by cutting a 100 cm² circle with a GSM cutter, weighing it and multiplying by 100.
A higher GSM means a heavier, denser fabric. It is the most useful single number for comparing hoodie fabrics, but it isn’t the whole story: two fabrics at the same GSM can feel different because of the yarn, the knit, the brushing and the finishing.
Hoodie GSM chart
These are typical ranges used across the industry. Names like “midweight” and “heavyweight” are not formal standards, so always confirm the actual GSM with your manufacturer.
| GSM | Weight class | Feel | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| 240–280 | Lightweight | Thin and drapey, cool to wear | Layering, warm climates, summer drops, event merch |
| 280–320 | Light to midweight | Soft, everyday weight | Merch, staff wear, teamwear on a budget |
| 330–380 | Midweight | Classic retail hoodie, holds its shape | Core hoodies for most brands, year-round |
| 400–450 | Heavyweight | Dense and structured, keeps a boxy silhouette | Premium streetwear, oversized fits |
| 450–500+ | Super heavyweight | Very thick and warm, stiff at first | Statement pieces, cold climates, limited drops |
300 vs 350 vs 400 vs 500 GSM
300 GSM hoodie
Light enough to wear indoors and to layer under a jacket. It packs and ships well and keeps the price down, which makes it popular for merch, events and staff programmes. On an oversized cut it can look a little soft rather than structured.
350 GSM hoodie
A balanced weight that feels substantial without being bulky. If you are not sure where to start, a midweight hoodie around 330–380 GSM suits the widest range of customers and climates.
400 GSM hoodie
Where most premium streetwear hoodies sit. The fabric has visible body, the hood stands up, and boxy or dropped-shoulder fits keep their shape. It is warmer, heavier to ship and costs more per piece.
500 GSM hoodie
Very heavy fabric that makes a strong statement and feels almost like outerwear. It needs a well-made rib and careful sewing, can feel stiff until it has been washed, and adds noticeably to shipping weight. It works best for limited drops and cold markets.
What is a heavyweight hoodie?
There is no official cut-off, but in practice “heavyweight” usually means around 400 GSM and above, and some brands use it from about 380 GSM. If you advertise a hoodie as heavyweight, quote the actual GSM in your product description: buyers increasingly check it.
Weight alone doesn’t make a hoodie feel premium. A heavyweight body paired with thin rib cuffs, a single-layer hood or a loose drawcord will still feel cheap. Specify the rib, a lined or double-layer hood, and the trims to match the fabric.
Fleece vs French terry
| Brushed fleece | French terry (loopback) | |
|---|---|---|
| Inside | Brushed to a soft, fluffy surface | Small loops left unbrushed |
| Warmth | Warmer at the same GSM | Cooler and more breathable |
| Look | Soft, cosy, classic | Cleaner, slightly more structured, “vintage” feel |
| Common use | Winter hoodies, premium basics | Spring and summer ranges, layering, garment-dyed styles |
Fibre content and finishing
- 100% cotton: natural feel and breathability; can shrink, so ask for pre-shrunk fabric or a garment wash.
- Cotton/polyester blends (for example 80/20): shrink less, pill less on the outside face and hold colour well.
- Organic and recycled options: organic cotton and recycled polyester blends are available for brands with sustainability goals; ask for documentation if you plan to make claims about them.
- Yarn: combed or ring-spun yarn gives a smoother, stronger fabric than open-end yarn.
- Washes: enzyme, garment or acid washes soften the hand-feel and change the look, and they reduce later shrinkage.
How weight affects price and shipping
Knitted fabric is usually bought by the kilo. For the same hoodie size, a 450 GSM fabric weighs 50% more than a 300 GSM fabric, so the fabric cost rises roughly in line with the weight. Heavier fabric also takes more care to sew, and every extra gram adds to air and courier freight, which is charged by weight or volume.
That doesn’t mean lighter is always cheaper overall. A midweight hoodie that sells at full price is better value than a heavyweight one that doesn’t suit your market.
How to choose the right weight
- Selling premium streetwear or oversized fits? Start at 400–450 GSM.
- Building a core, all-season hoodie? Look at 330–380 GSM.
- Merch, events, staff or teamwear on a budget? 280–320 GSM keeps cost and shipping down.
- Warm-climate customers or layering pieces? French terry at the lighter end.
- Not sure? Sample two weights and wear them for a week.
Ask for a sample. The quickest way to choose is to feel the fabric. We can sample your hoodie at the weights you are considering so you can compare them side by side. See how sampling works.
Frequently asked questions
Is 300 GSM good for a hoodie?
Yes, for lighter everyday hoodies, merch and warm climates. It will feel softer and less structured than a 400 GSM hoodie.
Is 400 GSM too heavy?
Not for a premium hoodie. It is the weight most streetwear brands use. For warm markets or layering, choose a lighter fabric.
Does GSM affect shrinkage?
Not directly. Shrinkage depends mainly on fibre content and finishing. Cotton-rich fabrics shrink more unless they are pre-shrunk or garment washed.
Make your hoodie
We manufacture custom hoodies in Sialkot, Pakistan from 280 to 450+ GSM in fleece or French terry, with your branding and labels. For streetwear ranges, see streetwear manufacturing.
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